Stitch Exchange: Alabama Studio Sewing Patterns
Posted by Kristine Vejar on May 27, 2015 54 Comments
Let's create a scenario. You and I are sitting together, enjoying an afternoon cup of tea, and let's say that the topic of sewing comes up (hopefully), one thing is certain, I will begin to enthusiastically discuss the work of Alabama Chanin. And if you are unaware of what Alabama Chanin is, I will begin to describe it to you. Natalie Chanin is the founder. It is a style of sewing: the pieces are made by layering organic cotton jersey, the application of paint in various designs, the stitching - all done by hand - form clothing and home wares. I will most likely pull an in-progress piece of Alabama Chanin inspired work from my bag - or show you samples of clothing, if we are in my shop.
I will struggle internally with how much I can tell you within a time frame in which will keep your interest, as this is a topic I can wax poetic for quite some time. But really, I don't want to spoil it for you, for much of the fun lies in the discovery of Alabama Chanin's past, present, and glimpses into the future as Natalie transverses her path through the US terrain of textiles, fashion, manufacturing, and cultivation of materials in which her clothing is made.
Natalie shares this journey through her blog, The Journal, through story telling when she teaches, and through the publication of a collection of books - all which teach how she makes garments. Natalie's first two books, Alabama Stitch Book and Alabama Studio Style, give a glimpse of what it might be like to live in Natalie's world - the Alabama Chanin lifestyle. There are gorgeous photos of the country side, of beautiful, rustic homes - adorned with hand-stitched home wares, and models wearing garments which are both elegant and wearable. I daydream of sitting in a Alabama Chanin dress, in the sultry south, sipping a (spiked) lemonade - while stitching a new Alabama Chanin dress!
Natalie's third book, Alabama Studio Sewing and Design, focuses on sewing garments, and there is a strong focus on the myriad of ways an Alabama Chanin garment can be adorned: cloth color, paint color, stencil design, thread color, bead color, etc. The models in this book wear multiple Alabama Chanin pieces at once, giving the reader an idea of what a wardrobe of Alabama Chanin might look like (amazing), and inspires the notion that there are endless opportunities within the Alabama Chanin repertoire to explore surface design.
So, when I heard that Natalie's fourth and newest book, Alabama Studio Sewing Patterns, focuses upon garment construction and pattern modification, it seemed like a natural next step, as Natalie has progressively become more focused upon technique and garment, and I was (am) very excited. That said, when I first opened the book - I felt a pinch of pain - this book is chock full of the nitty gritty of sewing. It is a technical manual (hello slashing and spreading). This is good - this is great - this is ideal - but whoa! I think this would be very hard to write and it takes an extraordinary amount of discipline and focus. Whether it was or wasn't painful for Natalie, I do not know - but I do want to use this space to recognize her work, effort, and diligence. Looking through the book, I feel like I am sitting in the studio, I am a member of the Alabama Chanin production team. And we are designing a custom garment.
As I was dreaming away, thinking of what I would do first with this book, much to my utter surprise, Alabama Chanin contacted me, and asked me what my custom garment would look like - and they offered to make it for me! This was easy, as there are thousands of variations of Alabama Chanin that I would happily accept - and also incredibly hard - which one do I choose?! I am used to helping the customers at verb make these decisions - but when it came to me - I was tongue tied. So I listened to my own advice - choose colors and shapes you know you love.
In terms of color, last year, I dyed a t-shirt with golden flowers of the coreopsis plant and dipped it into a bath of iron water. I love the color - a warm brown that borders on grey. So I decided to go with a similar color with matching paint. Plus, in the back of my mind, I am toying with the idea of overdyeing this dress - this light color will allow me to do that but is beautiful even if I don't decide to dye it.
In terms of shape, I have a black, cotton jersey empire waist dress I adore - which I tend to wear often in the summer. The shape of this dress is similar to the A-Line Dress - one of the new patterns released in the book. So I felt safe to choose this shape and pattern. I also love a v-neck!
I chose the Magdalena stencil pattern as I love how the motif curls and winds it way around itself - like a meandering vine of ivy. Now for the modifications!
Pockets! I adore pockets - lipstick, keys, phone. Enough said. And directions can be found on page 28.
Sleeves. In the Bay Area, I am never too far from the breeze (wind) blowing off the Pacific Ocean - or the damp, chilly, layer of fog rolling in or out. Don't get me wrong, I love living here - it is beautiful - and I love not having to use an air conditioner - but goodness! It can make wearing sleeveless garments challenging. So I requested sleeves on my A-line dress. Even today, taking these photos, though the sun is shining brightly, there was a slight nip in the air, and I was grateful for my sleeves - while giving my legs some sun time. And in the event that it is even more chilly, I can always throw on a pair of leggings. I asked how they made this modification and this is what I was told, "Take the armhole from the casual, fitted top and draw it in place of the armhole in the A-line dress. Then, use the sleeve pattern included in the book." Brilliant! For me, this is the million dollar answer.
So, here's my question to you - say we are still sitting side-by-side, drinking tea, though now you have purchased her newest book, which pattern would you make, and how would you modify it? Leave a comment below, by Wednesday, June 3rd, midnight PST, and you will be entered to win 2 yards of Alabama Chanin medium weight fabric (from our current stock).
My adoration of Natalie as an artist, an entrepreneur, and an activist knows no bounds. And to you, I give gratitude for sharing in this journey!
-- Kristine
Comments (54 Comments)
Posted by Kathleen Teller on April 14, 2016
Fitted Dress is my favorite – I’ve made four so far. But I think it’s time for a nice swishy A-line dress with pockets and sleeves, too. Right now everything gets layered with a cardigan, but there’s a lot to be said for throwing on one piece of clothing and flip-flops and calling it done.
Posted by Rebecca on June 19, 2015
Yes, yes, YES!! I live in San Francisco, too, and was thumbing through the book calculating which dress pattern I could most easily add a sleeve to! I love this! Now I’m off to draft/copy my pattern, with sleeves. Hooray!
Posted by Wendi on June 18, 2015
I am SO happy to find out how to add sleeves! I don’t look great in sleeveless, and summertime is too hot for layers…
So, so happy to have the answer for this!
Posted by Martha on June 18, 2015
I would add long sleeves to the baby doll dress — two yards should just about do it! Thanks!
Posted by victoria on June 18, 2015
I have flipped through Natalie’s newest book every night since I got it two weeks ago. The beauty!! I think I would make the poncho. Easy peasy (no alternations!) And then move on the corset. Your dress is stunning!
Posted by Tracy on June 18, 2015
I’ve been obsessing and obsessing and obsessing over the book (and just ran to Staples yesterday to print 7 patterns). I plan to make test versions of the A-line and tank dresses this weekend — it’ll be interesting to see the differences!
Wish I could say a dress is next up for me, but what I really need is a good, heavy-duty, all-purpose black cardigan with pockets, so that’s what I’ll probably make. I love the long bell sleeves from the fitted T in the last book, so I might try to frankenpattern those in.
Great dress, btw — the color is gorgeous.
Posted by Rae on June 18, 2015
I love tea,
I think that a robe a la Chanin would be so comfy and beautiful to enjoy every day and night. I would adapt the wrap skirt into a robe and embellish with new leaves, perhaps pink under indigo reverse appliqué.
Love from Michigan,
Rae12
Posted by Marianne on June 03, 2015
I love that Idea on how to add sleeves to one of her sleeveless dress or top patterns. So simple. I will definitely try that.
Your dress is beautiful!
Posted by Valerie on June 03, 2015
I’d love to somehow create a more fitted version of the A-line dress. I love the ease of loose garments, but they aren’t always the most flattering on my shorter frame. I’m also a camisole and skirt kind of girl, so I would also love to try a stenciled skirt.
Posted by Jackie Moore on June 03, 2015
My fantasy is the deep v-back evening dress, black on black, Magdalena stencil around the neckline and hem, with some beading added. Maybe 3/4 sleeves, definitely with beads around the cuff. Slight train. Oh my….
Love it all. Thanks!
Posted by Patti on June 03, 2015
I just received the new book, and I can’t wait to make some of the tops and skirts. I love the dress modification! I think now that it’s summer, I’d make the sleeveless dress with a lower V-neck, pockets, and I can’t make up my mind about the stencil. But along the bottom and going up the sides.
Posted by Romy on June 03, 2015
Thanks for doing this giveaway! I’m obsessed with the Alabama Chanin aesthetic and have been since meeting Natalie at your shop. I would love to draft a long dress – a sleeveless boat neck fitted top grafted to the wrap skirt. Rose stencil traveling diagonally up the wrapped part of the skirt, across the shoulder, and a small bit on the back of the neck. I would call it my Wrapped in Roses dress and I would wear it everywhere and be fabulous. :)
Posted by Elisa on June 03, 2015
Oh, how wonderful to read everyone’s ideas, and for you to share them. I love the book and am SO excited for a new summer sewing project. I made tea towels in a workshop with Natalie once and thought they were too beautiful so I turned them into pillowcases, then bought an organic duvet and sewed the Magdalena pattern at the corners for a wedding present. I’ve already made a beautiful deep red skirt with the leaf cut out print and have been trying to find the right top to wear with it. It’s been pretty clear for awhile now that I just need to make one! Your challenge arrived at the perfect moment. I’d like to make the princess seamed t-shirt top but change the neckline to a scoop and sleeve to 3/4 length..to wear bracelets. It will be a challenge to finally sew princess seams but I’m ready for something new. I love the polka dots but a plain top might also be fine.
Posted by Jess on June 03, 2015
Wow, I love this dress so much!! It looks lovely on you and so perfect for the Bay Area climate. Now that I’m in MN (!!), I really want to make the A-line tank dress, with a v-neck and the deeper v back. I love the extra drape and the pockets on your dress, and the placement of the stencils on yours and I’m inspired to follow a similar “meandering” placement around the edges of the dress. This book is on my birthday wishlist and I can’t wait to get started with some Alabama Chanin makes :)
Posted by Paula on June 02, 2015
Definitely the A-line dress. Bracelet length sleeves and a very subtle hi-lo hemline. I haven’t made anything yet – all the pieces are really lovely.
Posted by Lynn on June 02, 2015
I love this book, and I’ve been poring over it dreaming of an Alabama Chanin wardrobe! I’d love to make the long wrap skirt, but I’d modify it with a little internal slash and spread to get a fuller sweep at the bottom! I’d sprinkle the hemline with some stenciled leaves in reverse appliqué. I’m short so I might have to shorten the skirt as well!
Posted by Laura on June 02, 2015
Gosh, it’s so hard for me to choose. I have long admired all of Natalie Chanin’s work (and books). I absolutely adore the relaxed jacket she teaches on her Craftsy class. I’ve bought the class and have yet to dive in. Perhaps this summer will be the perfect opportunity? I’ve been afraid to do the stenciling I have to admit, but I need to overcome that fear. I don’t think I’d modify it at all. I love it as it is!
Posted by Diana on June 02, 2015
First, thank you for alerting me to Natalie Chanin’s journal/blog, so inspiring. But, between Verb, Grainline and frequent visits to about half a dozen other sewing and fiber blogs when will I ever have time to modify, sew and embellish an Aline dress with 3/4 sleeves, pockets and a knee length hem in a muted rust (if the fabrics venture in that color range) with appliqué at hem and cuffs, ideally on the yoke area, if I’m not too impatient to finish it up and start wearing that comfy, elegant yet approachable frock.
Posted by Tia on May 31, 2015
I am still working through my first Alabama Chanin project (armwarmers, which I ambitiously went all out on with a beaded reverse applique pattern…halfway done through the first armwarmer, yipes).
From the new book, I would have to make the A-Line dress, first! The mid length version. I think it would be so gorgeous in a muted gray-blue, and I would have to do a reverse applique of a dandelion-puff stencil I made based off their available stencils (the circular motif from their “facets” stencil, mixed in with stems and leaves). The paint for the stencil would be a lighter shade of gray, then reverse appliqued with black or dark blue beads . Or at least that is what I currently have in mind!
Posted by Celia Ortiz on May 30, 2015
Dear Kristine,
Thank you for having us over for tea! I love Earl Grey and will have it plain and hot. Don’t you love that first whiff of Bergamont? Since you posed your question regarding Natalie’s latest book and modifying a pattern, I’ve been purusing her designs and have finally decided on my next project. I would choose the A-line dress, T or mid-length, add 3/4 sleeves (to show off my bracelets) and cut it up the center. I would add inside pockets (a little higher up) and I envision Ballet, tone on tone, gold paint and creme thread. I would also consider the classic coat neckline. Why not modify the classic coat? I love the fullness of the A-line dress, the swishiness ;0). I just finished the Poncho in Peacock in negative reverse appliqué; I would make my coat borrowing my friend Roberta’s Magdalena stencil in reverse appliqué. The coat would be perfect for my southwest desert climate. The summer will be bearable with this fine project in my hands and happy thoughts of cooler weather.Let’s get started!
Regards,
Celia
Posted by Mary W on May 30, 2015
I have just discovered Alabama Chanin and I have fallen so hard! Love your dress! And how brilliant to add sleeves! I would make the a line dress only change the neckline and armholes to be that of the t shirt top from the 3rd book. Hmmmm I would chose the magdalana stencil.
Posted by lori on May 29, 2015
i don’t have the new book, but definitely need it, i’m exciting to be sewing again. i LOVE your dress, and would like to make one just like it. thank you for offering this lovely giveaway!
Posted by Navarre Miya on May 29, 2015
I am just finishing up my first Alabama Chanin garment, the bolero with Anna’s garden reverse appliqué. I am so in love. Now I want to make everything of course. I think I would go for a baby doll top using a shortened fitted tunic with a wide ruffle border added to the hem. Maybe adding the delicate Climbing Daisy appliqué.
Or a million other ideas. Thanks for the giveaway!
Posted by barbara on May 29, 2015
so many choices, as you know. i want to start with the wrap skirt, use the rose stencil sideways falling off the edge like they show in a skirt in one of the earlier books (i have and use them all) and make the hem just graze the back of my knee- exactly the right length! thanks for letting me dream.
Posted by Jan on May 29, 2015
I have done a two layer shirt with large dots, so a more complex pattern such as Magdalena or paisley on a long sleeve top would be my ‘wish’. Also, I am intrigued with adding the princess seams from the cami. I think they are so flattering, but think a higher neck is more comfortable for me! Thanks for the opportunity! Your dress is lovely!
Posted by Katharine on May 29, 2015
I want to finally make a double-layered gore dress. I’ve made several single-layered ones but always lose my nerve when I remember it would take 6 yards. What the hell, it’s worth it. I will love it forever. I love the mix of navy and black in the last book, with Anna’s Garden, maybe? And 3/4 sleeves!
Posted by Kim on May 29, 2015
i never much cared for sewing until I took Natalie’s handsewing class at Penland a few years ago. Now I’m a devoted fan of her techniques and organic cotton jersey fabric. I’ve made three dresses (two that I love), a poncho that I reworked into a wrap skirt and a couple of tees. I adore the A-line dress and would try it with a deep scoop neckline, cap sleeves and pockets, always pockets. Maybe white on white using Angie’s Fall?
Posted by darcy on May 29, 2015
Sleeves on the A-line dress!! So fantastic… I have made 2 A-lines so far, one a tunic and the other a dress. My thought was to make a bolero to cover my arms in the cooler weather, or knit/crochet a shrug. But SLEEVES. Yes. It appears that I will be making a third A-line… maybe a top with long sleeves. After I finish stenciling/sewing/embellishing my T-shirt, which I modified into a boatneck. I’m kinda in love with Natalie’s patterns — can you tell?
Posted by mindy on May 29, 2015
I really love the a-line dress, but it is quite voluminous, and makes me look quite sizable. (I have had the great good fortune to visit AC and thus was able to try on everything!) I would like to reduce the size of the panels, add sleeves, and, of course, pockets. in the book, they show pockets in a contrasting color, which I just adore to bits.
Posted by annri on May 29, 2015
i have been an AC fan for a long time but have yet to sew a garment (wristbands & headbands though). I have filled my virtual shopping basket at the website many times but never completed a purchase… it would be a huge treat to win some fabric! thank you for the chance.
Posted by lou haney on May 29, 2015
Thank you for the giveaway!
I am from North Alabama and I visited her Factory in Florence 2 years ago. It was so cool. Last summer I finished a skirt (just have to put in the waistband) with Anna’s Garden stencil. I used 4XL t-shirts from walmart. It would have been so much easier with her fabric…
To the next garment!
I would like to the make the A-line dress with 3/4 sleeves and a round neck.
Posted by Bekky on May 29, 2015
I love all Natalies work but what I dream about most is a heavily embellished skirt with anna’s garden stencil. A teal colour fabric with silver stencil colour, bugle beads and sequins. If I am finally going to finish a piece of Alabama Chanin I want it to be a real statement.
Posted by Kea on May 28, 2015
A-line dress for sure. Looks beautiful on you.
Posted by Debbie on May 28, 2015
in love with this whole process. I would definitely make a shirt dress!
Posted by Janis on May 28, 2015
The pattern that I would modify is the A-line tunic. I would cut the v-neck a little lower and layer the top over a camisole. I would add three quarter length sleeves and embroider the swirl pattern “fur” as trim toward the bottom of the tunic.
Posted by Amber on May 28, 2015
It’s so easy to answer this question, as it has already been winding through my mind for weeks!
The long fitted skirt, modified with internal adjustments at the waist and hip, such that the hem just reaches my ankles in the back and is just below my knees in front.
Magdalena stencil all over
Back and front fabric layer navy with darker blue paint
Reverse appliqué
Some beading?!
Posted by Amber on May 28, 2015
Tunics have been my thing lately, so I’d probably do the A-line tunic. With appliques, rounded patch pockets that gather a bit at the top, and 3/4 length sleeves…maybe a slightly scooped out boatneck. Actually, now that I’m thinking about this, I could see it in a short dress, too! Over leggings or culottes. Okay, now I really want this outfit!
Posted by Becky Anne on May 28, 2015
Gorgeous! Very interested in your process and the lovely materials/pattern you used! Would love to make one for myself! ?
Posted by Sarah on May 28, 2015
I love a dress so it would have to be the A-line dress. The mods I would make are:
1. Long slim sleeves (down to my hands and I like sleek lines when I wear a cardigan)
2. Deep pockets
3. A little more length
4. The neckline -I suit a little lower or higher (preferably with a rounder neck)
5. A little less fullness on the front and maybe a tie at the back
Your dress looks lovely on you.
Posted by Amy on May 28, 2015
I am getting ready to make the a-line dress, but I would love to try it with sleeves! How difficult is it to add sleeves?
Posted by Sylvia on May 28, 2015
I would make a tank like on the cover. It would be useful from March – October here in Texas.
Posted by Marisa on May 28, 2015
I’m here for the tea party. I would make the mid length fitted skirt but would add some biiiig pockets. Cannot wait for another Natalie book signing at Verby! My new book wants to mer her.
Posted by Kristi on May 28, 2015
Love your dress and the core + variation approach to this book.
A-Line dress. With pockets. Without sleeves.
Posted by Sue K on May 28, 2015
I love Natalie, and attended her workshop last year at the Factory. I wold chose the A-line dress, with pockets, but with the New Leaves stencil. Your dress is gorgeous!
Posted by Effie M. on May 28, 2015
An A-line dress for me, cap sleeves, pale color, dandelion stencil if I could sort it out. My stencil would not be an all over design, but more subtle like your dress. Also want to make a bolero to go with it. Oh heck. Who am I kidding? I want to make it all. I LOVE that there is the section in the back of the book that tells you what they used to make up each outfit pictured in the book. Now that I am planning a me made wardrobe, this is so helpful for me to envision how the pieces can all work together.
I just got my copy of the book last week, so plan on adding a sticky note with the sleeve modification of yours, for future reference,
Posted by Dee on May 28, 2015
Natalie is amazing and Alabama Chanin is the true model of slow fashion!
Posted by Sheri on May 28, 2015
I am loving learning more about Alabama Chanin and the A Line dress is beautiful for all body shapes! I would love to win the fabric and have my 17-yr-old daughter, a budding seamstress, make this dress. She has been sewing since she was 12 – taking a class next week to make a dress from knit fabric (Marianne?) and I think she would love this fabric and pattern. Off to order the book for her now! I can’t sew but I do knit and my daughter and I both enjoy and value making things by hand. Thank you for the offer!
Posted by Sara on May 28, 2015
I’ll probably end up making everything from this book!, but I think I’ll start with a wrap skirt, which would fill a big hole in my wardrobe. Of course I can’t stop thinking about the A-line dress, either. I really enjoyed your post!
Posted by Karen Braitmayer on May 28, 2015
Oh, how I love that dress! What a flattering shape and the stitchwork. I would love to make one of my own.
Posted by Melissa on May 28, 2015
The Aline dress very long. I have been toying around with fading out the dot stencils big to small from the hem to the top. Sleeves! I love your sleeves, I hadn’t thought of that! Pockets always. No pockets no go for me.
Posted by Ericka on May 28, 2015
The a-line dress is next in line for me. I could see doing a sleeved version for the fall. I also haven’t been able to get the full length a-line dress with the low v back out of my mind and plan to make that sometime in the near future as well.
Posted by Teri on May 28, 2015
Oh, I love your dress! I would definitely chose the a-line dress.
Posted by Nicole on May 28, 2015
Definitely the A Line Dress. I would likely add sleeves to just above my elbow.
Posted by mary m on May 28, 2015
Beautiful! I’m on my third skirt from her kits and and have also made a corset top, the rose shawl and a bandana. I’d love to make a dress! Got the book at Verb for Keeping Warm and am looking forward to starting something new soon. A dress would be fun! Love Natalie and you too!
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